{"id":52720,"date":"2026-06-29T11:53:20","date_gmt":"2026-06-29T08:53:20","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/sadogorodnik.top\/?p=52720"},"modified":"2026-06-29T11:53:20","modified_gmt":"2026-06-29T08:53:20","slug":"kak-vyrastit-kapustu-czeloj-predotvrashhaya-3-prichiny-rastreskivaniya-kochanov","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/sadogorodnik.top\/uz\/kak-vyrastit-kapustu-czeloj-predotvrashhaya-3-prichiny-rastreskivaniya-kochanov\/","title":{"rendered":"Boshlarning ikkiga bo'linishining 3 sababini oldini olib, butun karamni qanday o'stirish mumkin"},"content":{"rendered":"

Hammayoq boshlarini sindirish ko'plab bog'bonlar mavsum oxirida duch keladigan umidsizlikka uchragan muammodir. Aftidan, sog'lom karam to'satdan yorilib, ko'rinishini buzadi va hosilning saqlash muddatini qisqartiradi. Hammayoq o'sishi fiziologiyasini tushunish sizga xavflarni minimallashtirish va zich, butun boshoqlarni olish imkonini beradi. Sabzavotlaringiz sifatini ta'minlashning kaliti - bu doimiy o'sish sharoitlari.<\/p>\n

\"Hammayoqni<\/p>\n

Namlik o'zgarishi tufayli yorilish mexanizmi<\/h2>\n

Bu portlashlarning asosiy sababi qurg'oqchilik davridan keyin to'satdan suv oqimidir. Ildiz tizimi namlik tanqisligini boshdan kechirib, birinchi sug'orish yoki yomg'ir paytida uni faol ravishda o'zlashtira boshlaydi. Hammayoq boshining ichki to'qimalari tashqi barglarga qaraganda tezroq o'sadi va bu juda muhim bosim hosil qiladi.<\/p>\n

Suv balansi buzilganda, yadrodagi hujayralar cho'zilib, yorilib ketadi. Karamning tashqi qoplamidagi barglar elastikligini yo'qotadi va ichki bosimga bardosh bera olmaydi. Natijada, karamning boshida chuqur vertikal yoriqlar paydo bo'ladi.<\/p>\n

Buning oldini olish uchun tuproq namligini to'liq dala sig'imining 70\u201380\u00b0C (30\u00b0F) darajasida saqlash muhimdir. Issiq havoda har kuni sug'orib turing va uzoq davom etadigan yomg'ir paytida drenajni ta'minlang. Quruqlikdan ortiqcha namlikka to'satdan o'tish har doim meva tuzilishiga zarar yetkazadi.<\/p>\n

Harorat o'zgarishining rivojlanishga ta'siri<\/h2>\n

Tuproq va havo harorati o'simlikning metabolizm tezligini bevosita boshqaradi. Haroratning 20\u00b0C dan qisqa muddatli pasayishi o'sishni sekinlashtiradi, to'satdan isish esa o'sishni tezlashtiradi. Haroratning bu "o'zgarishi" karamda to'qimalarning notekis rivojlanishiga olib keladi.<\/p>\n

Bosh shakllanishi uchun optimal harorat oralig'i 16\u201322\u00b0C ni tashkil qiladi. Ushbu chegaralardan tashqarida o'simlik stressni boshdan kechiradi. Sovuq davrdan keyin haroratning keskin o'zgarishi ichki to'qimalarning tashqi qobiqqa qaraganda "tezroq o'sishiga" olib keladi.<\/p>\n

Beqaror ob-havo davrida to'qilmagan materiallardan foydalanish bu muammoning oldini olishga yordam beradi. Qoplama tuproqni qizib ketishdan himoya qiladi va harorat o'zgarishini yumshatadi. Yozning oxirida to'satdan iqlim o'zgarishi paytida o'simliklarni himoyasiz qoldirish xato bo'ladi.<\/p>\n

\"Yorilishning<\/p>\n

O'g'itlarni qo'llashdagi xatolar<\/h2>\n

Pishib yetishning oxirgi bosqichlarida ortiqcha azot birikmalari yorilgan boshoqlarni hosil qilishning ishonchli usuli hisoblanadi. Azot faol hujayra bo'linishini va yashil massaning o'sishini rag'batlantiradi, bu boshoq hosil bo'lgandan keyin qabul qilinishi mumkin emas. O'g'itlash kutilgan hosildan 3-4 hafta oldin to'xtatilishi kerak.<\/p>\n

Yuqori sifatli tuproq neytral pH qiymatiga (6.0\u20137.0) ega bo'lishi kerak. Kislotali tuproqlarda karam kasalliklarga ko'proq moyil bo'ladi, bu esa uning to'qimalarini zaiflashtiradi. Organik o'g'itlar kuzda, shudgorlashdan oldin qo'llanilishi kerak, shunda ular oson hazm bo'ladigan shaklga aylanishi mumkin.<\/p>\n

Avgust oyida boshning og'irligini oshirish uchun ortiqcha o'g'itlash keng tarqalgan xatodir. Bu bo'shashishga va butunlikni yo'qotishga olib keladi. Agar tuproq kambag'al bo'lsa, faqat kichik dozalarda fosfor-kaliyli o'g'itlardan foydalaning, lekin o'zingizni kompost mulchalash bilan cheklash yaxshiroqdir.<\/p>\n

Haddan tashqari pishib yetish paytida o'sishni nazorat qilish usullari<\/h2>\n

Hammayoq texnik yetuklikka yetganida va hosilni yig'ib olishning iloji bo'lmaganda, o'sishni sun'iy ravishda sekinlashtirish kerak. Eng samarali usul ildizlarni qisman olib tashlash yoki boshini aylantirishdir. Bu tuproqdan namlik va ozuqa moddalarining so'rilishini cheklaydi.<\/p>\n

Hammayoqning boshini ehtiyotkorlik bilan ushlang va uni 90 darajaga aylantiring yoki sekin yuqoriga torting. Bu ba'zi mayda so'ruvchi ildizlarga zarar yetkazadi, bu esa barg turgorini kamaytiradi. Bu usul boshning yaxlitligini odatdagidan 7-10 kun ko'proq saqlashga yordam beradi.<\/p>\n

Tanlangan duragayning pishib yetilish jadvalini kuzatib borish muhimdir. Erta navlar darhol yig'ib olinishi kerak, chunki ular haddan tashqari pishganda yorilishga moyil bo'ladi. Kech pishadigan navlar bardoshliroq, ammo ular to'liq pishganida ham e'tibor talab qiladi.<\/p>\n

Kasalliklar va zararkunandalarning oldini olish<\/h2>\n

Barglarning hasharotlar yoki qo'ziqorin infektsiyalari bilan shikastlanishi to'qimalarning qarshiligini pasaytiradi. Shilliqqurtlar, tayoq ildizi va bakterial kuyish patogenlar uchun kirish nuqtalarini yaratadi, bu esa boshning tuzilishini zaiflashtiradi. Zaiflashgan o'simlik ichki bosimni nazorat qilish qobiliyatini yo'qotadi.<\/p>\n

Zararkunandalarni nazorat qilish uchun bioinsektitsidlar va tuzoqlardan foydalaning. Faqat qattiq boshlar paydo bo'lishidan oldin profilaktik barg fungitsidlarini qo'llang. Shikastlangan barglarni olib tashlash o'simlik resurslarni qolgan barglarni himoya qilishga yo'naltirishga yordam beradi.<\/p>\n

\"Tuzoqlardan<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n
Harakat<\/td>\nTugash sanasi<\/td>\nNishon<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Organik moddalarni qo'shish<\/td>\nKuz<\/td>\nTuproq tuzilishini yaxshilash<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Azotli o'g'itlash<\/td>\nHammayoq boshi hosil bo'lishidan oldin<\/td>\nMassa ortishi<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Sug'orishni to'xtating<\/td>\nO'rim-yig'imdan 10 kun oldin<\/td>\nYorilishning oldini olish<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/table>\n

Tez-tez so'raladigan savollar<\/h2>\n

Hammayoqning boshi allaqachon yorilib ketgan bo'lsa, nima qilish kerak?<\/h3>\n

Bunday karam boshini uzoq vaqt saqlab bo'lmaydi, chunki zamburug'lar va bakteriyalar yoriqqa osongina kirib borishi mumkin. Uni darhol kesib tashlash va iste'mol qilish yoki konservalash uchun ishlatish kerak. Shikastlangan qismini kesib tashlash kerak, qolgan qismini esa cheklovlarsiz ishlatish mumkin.<\/p>\n

Mal\u00e7lama yorilishga ta'sir qiladimi?<\/h3>\n

Mulchalash tuproq namligini barqarorlashtirishning eng yaxshi usuli hisoblanadi. Somon yoki o't qirqimlari qatlami issiq havoda tez bug'lanish va ildizlarning qizib ketishining oldini oladi. Bu barqaror mikroiqlimni yaratadi va ildizlarning yorilishi xavfini kamaytiradi.<\/p>\n

Qaysi navlar bu muammoga eng kam moyil?<\/h3>\n

"Kolobok F1" yoki "Lotsman F1" kabi zamonaviy duragaylarni tanlang. Ular zich barg tuzilishiga va namlikning to'satdan o'zgarishiga genetik qarshilikka ega. Chidamli navlar bog'da o'zining bozor ko'rinishini uzoqroq saqlaydi.<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

\u0420\u0430\u0441\u0442\u0440\u0435\u0441\u043a\u0438\u0432\u0430\u043d\u0438\u0435 \u043a\u043e\u0447\u0430\u043d\u043e\u0432 \u043a\u0430\u043f\u0443\u0441\u0442\u044b \u2014 \u0434\u043e\u0441\u0430\u0434\u043d\u0430\u044f \u043f\u0440\u043e\u0431\u043b\u0435\u043c\u0430, \u0441 \u043a\u043e\u0442\u043e\u0440\u043e\u0439 \u0441\u0442\u0430\u043b\u043a\u0438\u0432\u0430\u044e\u0442\u0441\u044f \u043c\u043d\u043e\u0433\u0438\u0435 \u0434\u0430\u0447\u043d\u0438\u043a\u0438 \u0432 \u043a\u043e\u043d\u0446\u0435 \u0441\u0435\u0437\u043e\u043d\u0430. \u0412\u043d\u0435\u0448\u043d\u0435 \u0437\u0434\u043e\u0440\u043e\u0432\u044b\u0439 \u043f\u043b\u043e\u0434 \u0432\u043d\u0435\u0437\u0430\u043f\u043d\u043e \u043b\u043e\u043f\u0430\u0435\u0442\u0441\u044f, \u0447\u0442\u043e […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":52721,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"site-sidebar-layout":"default","site-content-layout":"","ast-site-content-layout":"default","site-content-style":"default","site-sidebar-style":"default","ast-global-header-display":"","ast-banner-title-visibility":"","ast-main-header-display":"","ast-hfb-above-header-display":"","ast-hfb-below-header-display":"","ast-hfb-mobile-header-display":"","site-post-title":"","ast-breadcrumbs-content":"","ast-featured-img":"","footer-sml-layout":"","ast-disable-related-posts":"","theme-transparent-header-meta":"","adv-header-id-meta":"","stick-header-meta":"","header-above-stick-meta":"","header-main-stick-meta":"","header-below-stick-meta":"","astra-migrate-meta-layouts":"default","ast-page-background-enabled":"default","ast-page-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"ast-content-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-4)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-4)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-4)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"footnotes":""},"categories":[20],"tags":[38],"class_list":["post-52720","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-sezonnye-raboty","tag-sad-i-ogorod"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/sadogorodnik.top\/uz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/52720","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/sadogorodnik.top\/uz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/sadogorodnik.top\/uz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/sadogorodnik.top\/uz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/sadogorodnik.top\/uz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=52720"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/sadogorodnik.top\/uz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/52720\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":53259,"href":"https:\/\/sadogorodnik.top\/uz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/52720\/revisions\/53259"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/sadogorodnik.top\/uz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/52721"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/sadogorodnik.top\/uz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=52720"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/sadogorodnik.top\/uz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=52720"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/sadogorodnik.top\/uz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=52720"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}