{"id":44317,"date":"2026-06-28T12:08:47","date_gmt":"2026-06-28T09:08:47","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/sadogorodnik.top\/?p=44317"},"modified":"2026-06-28T12:08:47","modified_gmt":"2026-06-28T09:08:47","slug":"vyrashhivanie-mangolda-v-otkrytom-grunte-dlya-polucheniya-urozhaya-cherez-dva-mesyacza","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/sadogorodnik.top\/uz\/vyrashhivanie-mangolda-v-otkrytom-grunte-dlya-polucheniya-urozhaya-cherez-dva-mesyacza\/","title":{"rendered":"Ikki oy ichida hosil olish uchun ochiq havoda shveytsariyalik mangold yetishtirish"},"content":{"rendered":"

Shveytsariya lavlagi - yuqori hosildorligi va parvarishga kam ehtiyoji bilan qadrlanadigan bargli lavlagi navi. O'simlik mavsum davomida faol ravishda barg o'stiradi, bu esa uni qimmatli bog' ekiniga aylantiradi. To'g'ri yetishtirish amaliyoti erta bahordan to barqaror sovuq ob-havo boshlangunga qadar yangi hosil olish imkonini beradi. To'g'ri parvarishlangan bog' ko'katlari vitaminlarga boy ko'katlarning barqaror ta'minotini ta'minlaydi.<\/p>\n

\"Shveytsariya<\/p>\n

Botanika xususiyatlari va madaniyat shakllari<\/h2>\n

Shveytsariya lavlagisi Chenopodiaceae oilasiga mansub bo'lib, oddiy lavlagi bilan chambarchas bog'liq. Ildiz navlaridan farqli o'laroq, faqat suvli poyalari va katta barglari iste'mol qilinadi. Bu ekin ikki yillik hisoblanadi, ammo mo''tadil iqlim sharoitida u bir yillik sifatida yetishtiriladi.<\/p>\n

Butaning balandligi 25-30 sm ga yetishi mumkin, barglari yaltiroq yoki pufakchali bo'ladi. Ikkita asosiy shakli mavjud: kuchli poyali poyasimon va barg poyasi (piyoza), ularda faqat barg pichog'i qimmatlidir. O'simlikning ildiz tizimi uzun va qattiq, shuning uchun u pishirishda ishlatilmaydi.<\/p>\n

Ekish joyini tanlashda quyosh nurlarini hisobga olish muhimdir. Shveytsariya manguli quyoshli joylarni afzal ko'radi, garchi issiq peshin paytida ozgina soyali bo'lsa ham. Soyali gulzorlarda o'sish sekinlashadi va barglar kichrayib boradi.<\/p>\n

\"Shveytsariya<\/p>\n

Tuproq talablari va joyni tayyorlash<\/h2>\n

Normal rivojlanishi uchun Shveytsariya mangosi neytral pH qiymati 6,5\u20137,0 bo'lgan unumdor tuproqni talab qiladi. Ildiz aeratsiyasini yaxshilash uchun og'ir loy tuproqlarni qum yoki kompost bilan yumshatish kerak. Yaxshi drenaj juda muhim, chunki suvning turg'unligi yosh ko'chatlarga zararli.<\/p>\n

Urug'larning unib chiqishi uchun optimal harorat 5 dan 8\u00b0C gacha, barglarning faol o'sishi uchun esa 18 dan 22\u00b0C gacha. Sovuq tuproqqa ekilganda yoki haroratning keskin o'zgarishiga duchor bo'lganda, o'simlik erta kurtak ochishga moyil bo'ladi. Bunday sharoitda barcha kuch barglarni o'stirishga emas, balki gul poyasini shakllantirishga sarflanadi.<\/p>\n

Bu ekin uchun eng yaxshi o'tmishdoshlar bodring, kartoshka yoki karamdir. Ularning yoniga piyoz yoki loviya ekish ham o'simliklarning o'sishini yaxshilaydi. Ekishdan oldin tuproqni organik moddalar bilan boyitish tavsiya etiladi, ammo barglarda nitrat to'planishining oldini olish uchun ortiqcha azotli o'g'itlardan saqlaning.<\/p>\n

Ekish texnologiyasi va vaqti<\/h2>\n

Ekish uch bosqichda amalga oshiriladi: erta bahorda, erta sabzavotlar yig'ib olingandan keyin yozning o'rtasida va qishdan oldin. Urug'lar 2-3 sm chuqurlikka, urug'lar orasida turiga qarab 25 dan 40 sm gacha masofada ekiladi. Qishdan oldin ekishda urug'larni muzlashdan himoya qilish uchun to'shaklar mulchalanishi kerak.<\/p>\n

Ko'chatlar ekilganidan 8-12 kun o'tgach paydo bo'ladi. Ko'pincha bitta urug'dan bir nechta kurtaklar unib chiqadi, shuning uchun yupqalash parvarishning zaruriy qismidir. Qolgan o'simliklar kuchli rozet hosil qilish uchun yetarli joyga ega bo'lishi kerak.<\/p>\n

Ko'chatlardan yetishtirish odatdagidan 2-3 hafta oldin hosil olish imkonini beradi. Bu usul urug'larni tejaydi va bir xil ekish zichligini ta'minlaydi. Ko'chatlar 3-4 ta haqiqiy barg hosil qilganda yerga ekiladi.<\/p>\n

\"Chard\"Unib<\/p>\n

O'sish davrida parvarish qilish va sug'orish<\/h2>\n

Yuqori sifatli hosil olish uchun bir xil sug'orish juda muhimdir. Suv yetarli bo'lmasa, to'qimalar dag'allashadi va ta'mi yo'qoladi, natijada barglar qattiq va tolali bo'lib qoladi. Tuproq nam bo'lishi kerak, bu esa qurib ketishi va botqoqlanishining oldini oladi.<\/p>\n

Qatorlar orasidagi bo'shliqlarni yumshatish har bir sug'orishdan yoki yomg'irdan keyin amalga oshiriladi. Bu protsedura begona o'tlarni nazorat qilishga yordam beradi va ildizlarga kislorod kirishini yaxshilaydi. Agar gul poyalari paydo bo'lsa, o'simliklarning foydali muddatini uzaytirish uchun ularni darhol olib tashlash kerak.<\/p>\n

Kambag'al tuproqlar uchun o'g'itlar uchun kaliyga e'tibor qaratgan holda murakkab mineral formulalardan foydalaning. Tuproqdagi ortiqcha tuzlarning oldini olish uchun ishlab chiqaruvchining dozasiga rioya qilish muhimdir. Biologik alternativa sifatida kompost damlamasi yoki yog'och kulidan foydalanish mumkin.<\/p>\n

\"Chard<\/p>\n

O'rim-yig'im va saqlash<\/h2>\n

Ommaviy yig'im-terim unib chiqqandan keyin 60-90 kundan keyin boshlanadi. Barglar to'liq kesilmaydi, balki poydevoridan ehtiyotkorlik bilan sindirib tashlanadi, bir vaqtning o'zida o'simlikning 25% dan ortiq yashil massasi olib tashlanadi. Bu o'simlikning tezda tiklanishi va yangi barglar hosil qilishi imkonini beradi.<\/p>\n

Yig'ib olingan o'tlardan darhol foydalanish tavsiya etiladi. Agar saqlash zarur bo'lsa, barglarni muzlatgichga qo'ying, u yerda ular ikki kungacha yangi bo'lib qoladi. Uzoqroq saqlash uchun poyasi va barglarini maydalagandan so'ng, mahsulotni muzlatib qo'ying, tuzlang yoki quriting.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n
Turli-tumanlik<\/td>\nPishib yetilish davri (kunlar)<\/td>\nPetiole xususiyatlari<\/td>\nVaraq turi<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Yoqut<\/td>\n35-40<\/td>\nQizil<\/td>\nO'rta pufakchali<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Lucullus<\/td>\n35-40<\/td>\nOch yashil<\/td>\nJuda pufakchali<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Miraj<\/td>\n40-45<\/td>\nOch yashil<\/td>\nBir oz pufakchali<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Vulqon<\/td>\n35-40<\/td>\nYorqin qizil<\/td>\nTo'q yashil<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/table>\n

Kasalliklar va zararkunandalardan himoya qilish<\/h2>\n
    \n
  • Ko'chatlarda qora oyoqlarning paydo bo'lishining oldini olish uchun namlikni kuzatib boring.<\/li>\n
  • Barglarning pastki qismini muntazam ravishda shira bor-yo'qligini tekshirib turing.<\/li>\n
  • Serkospora belgilari paydo bo'lganda, ta'sirlangan barglarni olib tashlang.<\/li>\n
  • Yomg'irli ob-havo paytida shilliqqurt tuzoqlaridan foydalaning.<\/li>\n
  • Dag'allanishning dastlabki belgilarida biologik preparatlar bilan profilaktik davolashni amalga oshiring.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

    Tez-tez so'raladigan savollar<\/h2>\n

    Qishda kvartirada shveytsariya chardini o'stirish mumkinmi?<\/h3>\n

    Ha, agar sizda yorug' deraza tokchasi bo'lsa, bu mumkin. Butani bog'dan kamida 3-5 litr sig'imli idishga ko'chiring va +20\u2026+25\u00b0C haroratni saqlang.<\/p>\n

    Nima uchun mening chig'anoq barglarim qattiq?<\/h3>\n

    Asosiy sabab tuproq namligining yetishmasligidir. Muntazam sug'orish o'simlik to'qimalarining nozik tuzilishini saqlashga yordam beradi.<\/p>\n

    Chard ko'chatlarini yupqalashtirish kerakmi?<\/h3>\n

    Albatta. Zich ekilgan joylardagi o'simliklar sekin rivojlanadi va yomon shamollatish tufayli qo'ziqorin kasalliklariga ko'proq moyil bo'ladi.<\/p>\n

    \"Turli<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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