{"id":37951,"date":"2026-06-25T19:25:52","date_gmt":"2026-06-25T16:25:52","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/sadogorodnik.top\/?p=37951"},"modified":"2026-06-25T19:25:52","modified_gmt":"2026-06-25T16:25:52","slug":"pravilnaya-agrotehnika-vyrashhivaniya-stolovoj-svyokly","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/sadogorodnik.top\/uz\/pravilnaya-agrotehnika-vyrashhivaniya-stolovoj-svyokly\/","title":{"rendered":"Stol lavlagi yetishtirish uchun to'g'ri qishloq xo'jaligi texnologiyasi"},"content":{"rendered":"

O'sish sharoitlari talablari<\/h2>\n

Lavlagi issiqlikni yaxshi ko'radigan, ammo nisbatan sovuqqa chidamli ekin hisoblanadi. Ochiq yerga ekish uchun eng maqbul vaqt - 10-15 sm chuqurlikdagi tuproq +8\u2026+10\u00b0C gacha qizigan payt. Sovuq tuproqda erta ekish ko'pincha murtak hosil bo'lishiga olib keladi: o'simlik ildiz hosil qilish o'rniga gul poyasini hosil qiladi va sabzavotning o'zi qattiq, tolali bo'lib, shirinligini yo'qotadi. Ko'chatlar -2\u00b0C gacha bo'lgan qisqa muddatli sovuqlarga bardosh bera oladi, ammo barqaror o'sishi uchun +19\u2026+22\u00b0C havo harorati afzalroqdir.<\/p>\n

\"Lavlagi<\/p>\n

Lavlagi biologik jihatdan uzoq kunlik o'simlik bo'lib, maksimal hosildorlik uchun 13-16 soat yorug'likni talab qiladi. Zamonaviy mintaqalashtirilgan navlar va F1 duragaylari juda moslashuvchan va kunduzgi vaqtga kamroq bog'liq, bu ularni doimiy hosil olish uchun ideal qiladi. Bu ekin neytral tuproqlarni afzal ko'radi; kislotali tuproqlarda ildiz mevalari yomon rivojlanadi va ta'mini yo'qotadi. Bodring, qovoq, erta karam va kartoshka kabi erta pishadigan sabzavotlar eng yaxshi salaflar hisoblanadi.<\/p>\n

Ekish va tuproq tayyorlash xususiyatlari<\/h2>\n

Lavlagi urug'lari mevaga o'xshash sharchalar to'plamini hosil qiladi, ulardan bir nechta nihol chiqadi. Bu majburiy ravishda yupqalashni talab qiladi. Bir urug'li (bitta niholli) navlar bu mehnat talab qiladigan operatsiyadan qochishadi, chunki ular faqat bitta o'simlik hosil qiladi. Ekishdan oldin tuproqni tayyorlash kerak: kuzda chirindi yoki kompost qo'shing (kvadrat metrga 2-5 kg) va agar kerak bo'lsa, kislotalilikni kamaytirish uchun ohak seping.<\/p>\n

\"Lavlagi<\/p>\n

Bahorgi ekish tuproq tarkibiga qarab, 2\u20134 sm chuqurlikdagi egatlarda amalga oshiriladi. Ko'chatlardan o'stirishda markaziy ildizga zarar yetkazmaslik muhim, chunki bu ildiz deformatsiyasiga olib keladi. Ko'chatlar 15 kundan katta bo'lmagan (8 sm balandlikda) o'simliklar orasida 12\u201315 sm masofani saqlab, ekiladi.<\/p>\n

Ekinlarga g'amxo'rlik qilish<\/h2>\n

Asosiy parvarish tuproqni begona o'tlardan tozalash, qatorlar orasidagi bo'shliqni ishlov berish va muntazam sug'orishni o'z ichiga oladi. Dastlabki o'sish davrida lavlagi begona o'tlarga ayniqsa sezgir. Kislorod ildizlarga yetib borishini ta'minlash uchun har bir sug'orishdan yoki yomg'irdan keyin tuproqni barglar yopilguncha ishlov bering.<\/p>\n

\"Bog'da<\/p>\n

Yupqalash ikki bosqichda amalga oshiriladi: birinchisi, 1-2 barg bosqichida (3-4 sm qoldirib) va ikkinchisi, 4-5 barg bosqichida (6-10 sm qoldirib). Sug'orish o'rtacha, ammo muntazam bo'lishi kerak; siyrak ekishlardan ortiqcha namlik ildizlarning yorilishiga olib keladi.<\/p>\n

O'g'itlash va ekin sifatini yaxshilash<\/h2>\n

Yuqori sifatli ildiz ekinlarini hosil qilish uchun ikkita asosiy o'g'itlash usuli qo'llaniladi:<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n
Sahna<\/td>\nTavsiyalar<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Birinchi<\/td>\nBirinchi suyultirishdan keyin (nitroammofoska yoki organik infuziyalar)<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Ikkinchi<\/td>\n15-20 kundan keyin (fosfor-kaliyli o'g'itlar yoki kul)<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

O'sish mavsumining ikkinchi yarmida ortiqcha azotdan saqlanish muhimdir, chunki bu nitrat to'planishiga va ildizda bo'shliqlar paydo bo'lishiga olib keladi. Bor kislotasi (10 litr suvga 2 g) bilan barglarni davolash yurak chirishining oldini olishda samarali hisoblanadi. Shakar miqdorini oshirish uchun osh tuzi (10 litr suvga 40 g) qo'shimcha natriy manbai sifatida ishlatilishi mumkin, ammo uni kam miqdorda ishlatish kerak.<\/p>\n

\"Lavlagi<\/p>\n

Kasalliklarni nazorat qilish va tozalash<\/h2>\n

Lavlagi bilan bog'liq asosiy muammolar qo'ziqorin chirishi va zararkunandalar (shira, barg qazuvchilar). Kimyoviy pestitsidlardan foydalanish maqsadga muvofiq emas, chunki o'simlikning barcha qismlari yeyilishi mumkin. Biologik mahsulotlardan (Fitosporin, Bitoksibatsillin) foydalanish va almashlab ekishni qo'llash tavsiya etiladi.<\/p>\n

\"Saqlashdan<\/p>\n

Hosilni yig'ib olish barqaror sovuq boshlanishidan oldin amalga oshiriladi. Ildizlar tuproqdan ehtiyotkorlik bilan olib tashlanadi, tepalari qirqiladi (1 sm uzunlikdagi poya qoldiriladi) va quritiladi. Qum yoki qipiqda 2 dan 3\u00b0C gacha haroratda saqlash eng yaxshisidir.<\/p>\n

TSS<\/h3>\n
    \n
  • Nima uchun lavlagi yog'ochsimon o'sadi?<\/strong> Bu namlikning yetishmasligi, em-xashak navlaridan foydalanish yoki juda sovuq tuproqda ekish natijasidir.<\/li>\n
  • Sabzidan keyin lavlagi ekish mumkinmi?<\/strong> Bu istalmagan, chunki ular umumiy zararkunandalar va kasalliklarga ega. Bodring yoki karamdan keyin gulzorni tanlash yaxshidir.<\/li>\n
  • Nima uchun tuzlangan lavlagi?<\/strong> Natriy barglardan ildiz hosiliga shakarning yaxshiroq oqishini ta'minlaydi, bu esa ta'mni yanada aniqroq qiladi.<\/li>\n
  • Qanchalik chuqur ekishim kerak?<\/strong> Yengil tuproqlarda - 4 sm gacha, og'ir tuproqlarda - 2 sm dan oshmasligi kerak.<\/li>\n<\/ul>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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