{"id":35367,"date":"2026-06-26T00:30:09","date_gmt":"2026-06-25T21:30:09","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/sadogorodnik.top\/?p=35367"},"modified":"2026-06-26T00:30:09","modified_gmt":"2026-06-25T21:30:09","slug":"pravila-peresadki-maliny-dlya-sohraneniya-urozhaya-v-tekushhem-sezone","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/sadogorodnik.top\/uz\/pravila-peresadki-maliny-dlya-sohraneniya-urozhaya-v-tekushhem-sezone\/","title":{"rendered":"Bu mavsumda hosilni saqlab qolish uchun malina ko&#039;chirib o&#039;tkazish bo&#039;yicha ko&#039;rsatmalar"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Malinaning hosildorligi to&#039;g&#039;ridan-to&#039;g&#039;ri ko&#039;chirish vaqtiga va ekish chuqurini tayyorlash sifatiga bog&#039;liq. Hosil to&#039;rt yil ichida tuproqni yo&#039;qotadi, shuning uchun hosildorlikni saqlab qolish uchun muntazam ravishda qayta ekish juda muhimdir. Ko&#039;chirish paytidagi xatolar ko&#039;pincha ko&#039;chirishdan keyingi birinchi yilda rezavorlarning yo&#039;qolishiga olib keladi. To&#039;g&#039;ri yondashuv ildiz tizimiga yuk tushishining oldini oladi va mevalarning doimiy ravishda yetishib chiqishini ta&#039;minlaydi.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/sadogorodnik.top\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/malina_6a3cf805d3427.jpeg\" alt=\"Bog&#039;da ko&#039;chirib o&#039;tkazish uchun malina\"><\/p>\n<h2>Malinalar uchun optimal vaqt va tuproq tayyorlash<\/h2>\n<p>Malinalar organik moddalarga boy, pH qiymati 5,8 dan 6,5 gacha bo&#039;lgan ozgina kislotali tuproqlarni afzal ko&#039;radi. Muvaffaqiyatli ildiz otishi uchun oldindan 50 x 60 sm o&#039;lchamdagi va 50 sm chuqurlikdagi chuqurlarni tayyorlash muhimdir. Qatorlar orasidagi optimal masofa 125-130 sm, alohida o&#039;simliklar orasidagi masofa esa 50-60 sm.<\/p>\n<p>Har bir ekish teshigiga 8-10 kg chirigan go&#039;ng qo&#039;shing, ozuqa aralashmasini qo&#039;shishdan oldin uni siqib oling. Organik moddalar ustiga 35-40 g ammoniy fosfat va 10 g kaliy tuzi yoki 80 g yog&#039;och kulidan tayyorlangan tuproq qatlamini seping. Bu aralashma o&#039;simliklarni o&#039;sish boshida zarur ozuqa bilan ta&#039;minlaydi.<\/p>\n<p>Noto&#039;g&#039;ri ekish chuqurligi yoki ortiqcha yangi go&#039;ng ildizlarning kuyishiga va ko&#039;chatlarning o&#039;limiga olib kelishi mumkin. Agar tuproq juda og&#039;ir bo&#039;lsa, drenajni yaxshilash uchun qum qo&#039;shishni unutmang. Mo&#039;&#039;tadil iqlim sharoitida iyul oyining oxirida yoki bahorda ekish yaxshidir.<\/p>\n<h2>Kuzgi transplantatsiya texnologiyasi<\/h2>\n<p>Yozning oxirida yoki kuzning boshida qayta ekish namlikning bug&#039;lanishini kamaytirish uchun tepaliklarni 10-15 sm ga kesishni talab qiladi. Ekilgandan so&#039;ng, har bir butani tayanchga bog&#039;lab, 6-8 litr miqdorida mo&#039;l-ko&#039;l sug&#039;orish kerak. Somon go&#039;ngi bilan mulchalash tuproqning yuqori qatlamida namlikni saqlashga yordam beradi.<\/p>\n<p>Omon qolish mexanizmi tuproq muzlashidan oldin so&#039;ruvchi ildizlarning tezda tiklanishiga asoslangan. Tabiiy yog&#039;ingarchilik bo&#039;lmagan taqdirda, purkagich bilan sug&#039;orish muntazam bo&#039;lishi kerak. Yetarli namlik bo&#039;lmasa, almashtirish kurtaklari pishishga ulgurmaydi va qishda muzlab qolishi mumkin.<\/p>\n<p>Yangi boshlovchilar yo&#039;l qo&#039;yadigan keng tarqalgan xato - bu mulchalashni e&#039;tiborsiz qoldirish, bu esa ildizlarning qurib qolishiga olib keladi. Tuproq namligini muntazam ravishda kuzatib borish o&#039;simlikning qishdan muvaffaqiyatli omon qolishini ta&#039;minlashning kalitidir. Joriy mavsumda mulcha qatlami poyalar bilan bevosita aloqa qilmasligiga ishonch hosil qiling, bu ularning chirishiga yo&#039;l qo&#039;ymaydi.<\/p>\n<h2>Bahorgi transplantatsiya usuli yer bo&#039;lagi bilan<\/h2>\n<p>Bahorgi qayta ekish, kurtaklar ochilishi boshida amalga oshiriladi, bu yil eng yuqori hosilni ta&#039;minlaydi. Butaning ildizlari to&#039;liq belkurak pichog&#039;i yordamida 20 sm radiusgacha qisqartiriladi va o&#039;simlik ildiz to&#039;pi bilan birga olib tashlanadi. Ekishdan oldin, ildiz tizimi qurib qolishidan himoya qilish uchun loy eritmasiga botiriladi.<\/p>\n<p>Bu usul o&#039;simlik o&#039;zining tabiiy mikroflorasi bilan aloqasini saqlab qolgani va uzoq vaqt tanaffussiz rivojlanishda davom etgani uchun ishlaydi. Jarayonni barglar 1,5-2 sm ga yetganda, faol sharbat oqimi boshlanganida bajarish muhimdir. Ildizpoyaga ehtiyotkorlik bilan munosabatda bo&#039;lish barcha yosh kurtaklarning saqlanishini ta&#039;minlaydi.<\/p>\n<p>Agar qazish paytida asosiy ildizlar shikastlangan bo&#039;lsa, butaning tiklanishi uzoq vaqt talab etadi, bu esa rezavorlar sonini kamaytiradi. Butani yangi joyga ko&#039;chirishdan oldin eski mevali poyalarni olib tashlashni unutmang. Har bir kurtakdan maksimal miqdorda rezavorlar olish uchun bahorda qayta ekish afzalroqdir.<\/p>\n<h2>O&#039;g&#039;it va o&#039;g&#039;itlash qo&#039;llanilish darajasi<\/h2>\n<table>\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td>O&#039;g&#039;it turi<\/td>\n<td>Bitta chuqur uchun norma<\/td>\n<td>Muqobil<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Chirigan go&#039;ng<\/td>\n<td>8-10 kg<\/td>\n<td>Kompost<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Ammofos<\/td>\n<td>35-40 g<\/td>\n<td>Superfosfat<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Kaliy tuzi<\/td>\n<td>10 g<\/td>\n<td>Yog&#039;och kul<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Loy pyuresi<\/td>\n<td>kerak bo&#039;lganda<\/td>\n<td>Biostimulyatorlar<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<h2>Malinaga g&#039;amxo&#039;rlik qilishda keng tarqalgan xatolar<\/h2>\n<ul>\n<li>Saytni o&#039;zgartirmasdan 4 yildan ortiq vaqt davomida bir joyda ekish.<\/li>\n<li>Transplantatsiyadan keyin quruq davrda sug&#039;orishni e&#039;tiborsiz qoldirish.<\/li>\n<li>Ildiz bo&#039;yni tuproqqa juda chuqur ekilgan.<\/li>\n<li>Mal\u00e7lama jarayonining buzilishi, bu ildizlarning haddan tashqari qizib ketishiga olib keladi.<\/li>\n<li>Panjara yoki qoziqlarga kurtaklar bog&#039;lashning yo&#039;qligi.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h2>Bahorgi transplantatsiya uchun bosqichma-bosqich algoritm<\/h2>\n<ol>\n<li>Kuzda ildizlarni sovuqdan himoya qilish uchun butalarni tepalikka ko&#039;taring.<\/li>\n<li>Bahorda, tuproqni tekislang va shikastlangan novdalarni kesib oling.<\/li>\n<li>Kurtaklari ochilib, 2 sm o&#039;lchamdagi barglar paydo bo&#039;lguncha kuting.<\/li>\n<li>Butaning atrofida 20 sm radiusda ildizlarni ehtiyotkorlik bilan kesib oling.<\/li>\n<li>O&#039;simlikni tuproq bo&#039;lagi bilan qazib oling va ildizlarini loyga botiring.<\/li>\n<li>Butani oldindan tayyorlangan chuqurga ekib, sug&#039;orib oling.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/sadogorodnik.top\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/malina_6a3cf80640e80.jpeg\" alt=\"Malinaning bahorgi transplantatsiyasi\"><\/p>\n<h2>Tez-tez so&#039;raladigan savollar<\/h2>\n<h3>Nima uchun malina ko&#039;chat ekilganidan keyin ozgina rezavor meva beradi?<\/h3>\n<p>Ko&#039;pincha, bu ildiz tizimining shikastlanishi yoki noto&#039;g&#039;ri ekish vaqti tufayli yuzaga keladi. O&#039;simlik barcha kuchini hosil olish o&#039;rniga tiklanishga sarflaydi. Muhim o&#039;sish bosqichlarida namlik yetishmasligi ham sabab bo&#039;lishi mumkin.<\/p>\n<h3>Malinalarni bahorda qayta ekishdan so&#039;ng darhol kesish kerakmi?<\/h3>\n<p>Ha, yer usti va yer osti qismlarini muvozanatlash uchun tepalarni 10-15 sm ga kesish juda muhimdir. Bu butaning tezroq o&#039;rnashishiga va ozuqa moddalarini kurtaklarga yo&#039;naltirishiga yordam beradi. Barcha o&#039;lik yoki shikastlangan qismlarni sog&#039;lom to&#039;qimalargacha olib tashlang.<\/p>\n<h3>Malina ekishda go&#039;ngni nima almashtirishi mumkin?<\/h3>\n<p>Agar go&#039;ng mavjud bo&#039;lmasa, shunga o&#039;xshash miqdorda yetilgan kompost yoki chirindidan foydalaning. Shuningdek, fosfor va kaliyga boy murakkab mineral o&#039;g&#039;itlarni ham qo&#039;llashingiz mumkin. Biologik alternativa ekishdan oldin mavsumda vermikompost yoki yashil go&#039;ngni qo&#039;llashdir.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/sadogorodnik.top\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/malina_6a3cf8069a068.jpeg\" alt=\"Transplantatsiyadan keyin malina hosili\"><\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>\u0423\u0440\u043e\u0436\u0430\u0439\u043d\u043e\u0441\u0442\u044c \u043c\u0430\u043b\u0438\u043d\u044b \u043d\u0430\u043f\u0440\u044f\u043c\u0443\u044e \u0437\u0430\u0432\u0438\u0441\u0438\u0442 \u043e\u0442 \u0441\u043e\u0431\u043b\u044e\u0434\u0435\u043d\u0438\u044f \u0441\u0440\u043e\u043a\u043e\u0432 \u0441\u043c\u0435\u043d\u044b \u043c\u0435\u0441\u0442\u0430 \u043f\u0440\u043e\u0438\u0437\u0440\u0430\u0441\u0442\u0430\u043d\u0438\u044f \u0438 \u043a\u0430\u0447\u0435\u0441\u0442\u0432\u0430 \u043f\u043e\u0434\u0433\u043e\u0442\u043e\u0432\u043a\u0438 \u043f\u043e\u0441\u0430\u0434\u043e\u0447\u043d\u044b\u0445 \u044f\u043c. \u041a\u0443\u043b\u044c\u0442\u0443\u0440\u0430 \u0438\u0441\u0442\u043e\u0449\u0430\u0435\u0442 \u043f\u043e\u0447\u0432\u0443 \u0437\u0430 4 [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":35368,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"site-sidebar-layout":"default","site-content-layout":"","ast-site-content-layout":"default","site-content-style":"default","site-sidebar-style":"default","ast-global-header-display":"","ast-banner-title-visibility":"","ast-main-header-display":"","ast-hfb-above-header-display":"","ast-hfb-below-header-display":"","ast-hfb-mobile-header-display":"","site-post-title":"","ast-breadcrumbs-content":"","ast-featured-img":"","footer-sml-layout":"","ast-disable-related-posts":"","theme-transparent-header-meta":"","adv-header-id-meta":"","stick-header-meta":"","header-above-stick-meta":"","header-main-stick-meta":"","header-below-stick-meta":"","astra-migrate-meta-layouts":"default","ast-page-background-enabled":"default","ast-page-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center 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