{"id":3506,"date":"2026-04-16T13:40:28","date_gmt":"2026-04-16T10:40:28","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/sadogorodnik.top\/?p=3506"},"modified":"2026-06-18T13:03:32","modified_gmt":"2026-06-18T10:03:32","slug":"kogda-seyat-pomidory-na-rassadu-v-2026-godu","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/sadogorodnik.top\/uz\/kogda-seyat-pomidory-na-rassadu-v-2026-godu\/","title":{"rendered":"2026-yilda pomidor ko'chatlarini qachon ekish kerak"},"content":{"rendered":"

Pomidor yig'im-terimi har doim aniq rejalashtirish natijasidir. Hatto ikki haftalik noto'g'ri ekish ham kuchli o'simliklarni transplantatsiya paytida kasalliklarga moyil bo'ladigan o'sib chiqqan o'simliklarga aylantirishi yoki aksincha, sizni eng sovuq ob-havogacha yig'im-terim qilishni kutishga majbur qilishi mumkin. 2026-yilda barqaror va mo'l hosilni ta'minlash uchun navning biologik xususiyatlarini, yorug'lik sharoitlarini va mintaqaning haroratini hisobga olish muhimdir.<\/p>\n

\"Derazada<\/p>\n

Tajribali agronomlar ham shunday fikrda: barcha mintaqalar uchun universal sana yo'q. Biroq, 2026-yil rejalashtirishga moslashuvchan yondashuvni talab qiladi. Ekish sanalari pomidor qayerda yetishtirilishiga bevosita bog'liq - isitilmaydigan plastik issiqxonada, polikarbonat issiqxonada yoki ochiq havoda.<\/p>\n

\"Issiqxonada<\/p>\n

2026-yilda pomidor ekish qachon: asosiy sanalar<\/h2>\n

Iqlim sharoitlaridan tashqari, ko'plab bog'bonlar oy fazalariga tayanadilar. Bu to'g'ri bog'dorchilik amaliyotining o'rnini bosmasa-da, oy taqvimiga rioya qilish o'simliklarga ko'chirib o'tkazish stressiga yaxshiroq bardosh berishga va tezroq ildiz otishlariga yordam beradi. 2026-yilda yer usti ekinlari uchun oy fazasining o'sishiga e'tibor qaratish muhimdir.<\/p>\n

\"Kassetalarda<\/p>\n

Fevral<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n
Sana<\/th>\nAsarlar<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n
5, 8, 9 fevral<\/td>\nUrug'larni namlash<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
12, 13, 14 fevral<\/td>\nEkish, sug'orish va ko'chirib o'tkazish<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
16-fevral, 17-fevral<\/td>\nEkish, past konsentratsiyali o'g'itlar bilan o'g'itlash<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
18-fevral, 19-fevral<\/td>\nEkish, o'g'itlash, sug'orish<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
20-fevral, 21-fevral<\/td>\nTerish, sug'orish<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
24-fevral<\/td>\nEkish<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
25-fevral, 26-fevral<\/td>\nTerish, sug'orish<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

Fevral oyida biz hosil uchun poydevor qo'yamiz. Shuni yodda tutish kerakki: agar siz pomidorni fevral oyining boshida eksangiz, kuniga kamida 12-14 soat davomida fitolampalar bilan qo'shimcha yoritish juda muhimdir. Busiz, ko'chatlar haqiqiy barglar paydo bo'lishidan oldin ham cho'zilib ketadi.<\/p>\n

Mart<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n
Sana<\/th>\nAsarlar<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n
2-mart, 3-mart<\/td>\nUrug'larni namlash, terish, sug'orish, mineral komplekslar bilan o'g'itlash<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
4-mart<\/td>\nQo'nish, transplantatsiya<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
5-mart<\/td>\nEkish materialini namlash, terish<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
7-mart, 8-mart<\/td>\nTerish, sug'orish<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
17, 18, 19, 23 mart<\/td>\nEkish, ko'chirib o'tkazish<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
26, 27, 28 mart<\/td>\nTerish, o'g'itlash<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
30-mart, 31-mart<\/td>\nTerish<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

Aprel<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n
Sana<\/th>\nAsarlar<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n
1, 3, 5 aprel<\/td>\nTerish, o'g'itlash<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
8-aprel, 9-aprel<\/td>\nEkish materialini tayyorlash, sug'orish<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
13, 14, 15-aprel<\/td>\nEkish<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
16-aprel, 17-aprel<\/td>\nTerish, sug'orish, o'g'itlash<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
19-aprel<\/td>\nQo'nish<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
24, 25, 26 aprel<\/td>\nTransplantatsiya, sug'orish<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
28-aprel<\/td>\nEkish<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

Pomidor ekish bo'yicha ko'rsatmalar: 2026 yil amaliyotlari<\/h2>\n

Polikarbonatli issiqxona uchun aniqlanmagan (baland) navlar idealdir. Ular issiqxona maydonida maksimal samaradorlikni ta'minlaydi. Agar issiqxona sovuq bo'lsa, ko'chatlarni faqat tuproq 12\u00b0C ga qizigandan keyingina ekish mumkin. Shoshilinch ekish ildiz o'sishini to'xtatishi va ildiz chirishiga olib kelishi mumkin.<\/p>\n

\"Yerga<\/p>\n

Urug'larni tayyorlash va ekish<\/h3>\n

Zamburug'li kasalliklarning oldini olish uchun urug'larni Fitosporin yordamida 2 soat davomida ivitib qo'ying. Mening shaxsiy maslahatim: urug'larni kuchsiz kaliy humat eritmasiga botirilgan paxta disklarida unib chiqing \u2014 bu ildiz tizimini kuchli boshlaydi.<\/p>\n

\"Pomidor<\/p>\n

Tuproq: ideal tuproq aralashmasining tarkibi<\/h3>\n
    \n
  • Torf (baland tog'li yoki o'tish davri) - 2 qism;<\/li>\n
  • Daryo qumi (kaltsiylangan) - 1 qism;<\/li>\n
  • Yog'och kul - 5 litr aralashma uchun 0,5 stakan.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

    Agar kokos pillasidan foydalansangiz, aralashtirishdan oldin tuzlarni olib tashlash uchun uni yuvib tashlang. Do'kondan sotib olingan torf tarkibida deyarli hech qanday ozuqaviy moddalar yo'qligini unutmang, shuning uchun unib chiqqandan ikki hafta o'tgach, kam azotli "ko'chat" o'g'iti bilan o'g'itlashni boshlang.<\/p>\n

    Parvarish va qishloq xo'jaligi texnologiyasi<\/h2>\n

    Issiqxonaga ekilgan pomidorlarning asosiy dushmanlari yuqori namlik va turg'un havodir. Shamollatish har kuni, hatto bulutli ob-havoda ham bo'lishi kerak. Agar poyalar qorayishni boshlayotganini sezsangiz, kutmang - tuproqni biofungitsid eritmasi bilan ishlang.<\/p>\n

    \"Yosh<\/p>\n

      \n
    • O'gay o'g'illarni chimchilab tashlash:<\/strong> Buni ertalab qiling, shunda kechqurun harorat pasayishidan oldin yaralar bitishi uchun vaqt topadi.<\/li>\n
    • Sug'orish:<\/strong> Faqat ildizga surting, suv barglarga tushishiga yo'l qo'ymang. Bu 80% da kechki fitoftoroz xavfini kamaytiradi.<\/li>\n
    • Yuqori kiyinish:<\/strong> Meva pishish bosqichida monokaliy fosfatga e'tibor qarating. Bu mevani shirin va yorilishga chidamli qiladi.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

      \"Issiqxonada<\/p>\n

      Ko'chatlarni ekishga tayyor ekanligining belgilari<\/h3>\n

      Ko'chatlarni haddan tashqari ko'p ekmang. Ideal ko'chat kuchli, qalamsimon ingichka poyaga, xloroz belgilari bo'lmagan to'q yashil barglarga va birinchi gul to'plamiga (lekin gullarga emas!) ega bo'ladi.<\/p>\n

      \"Stakanlarda<\/p>\n

      Yozgi aholi uchun tez-tez so'raladigan savollar<\/h2>\n

      Tuproq harorati +10\u00b0C dan past bo'lsa, yerga ko'chat ekish mumkinmi?<\/h3>\n

      Yo'q, tuproq harorati +10\u00b0C dan pastga tushganda, pomidor ildizlari deyarli fosforni yutishdan to'xtaydi, bu esa barglarning binafsha rangga bo'yalishiga va bir necha hafta davomida o'sishning kechikishiga olib keladi.<\/p>\n

      Agar ko'chatlar janubga qaragan derazada joylashgan bo'lsa, ularga qo'shimcha yorug'lik berishim kerakmi?<\/h3>\n

      Fevral oyida hatto janubga qaragan derazaga ham yorug'lik yetarli bo'lmaydi. O'sish uchun yorug'lik bo'lmasa, ko'chatlar zaif va injiq bo'ladi. Qo'shimcha yoritish kamida mart oyining o'rtalariga qadar kerak bo'ladi.<\/p>\n

      Agar ko'chatlar juda cho'zilib ketgan bo'lsa, nima qilish kerak?<\/h3>\n

      Issiqxonaga ko'chirib o'tqazishda uni birinchi haqiqiy barggacha chuqur eking. Ildiz tizimi sezilarli darajada kengayadi va poyada qo'shimcha yon ildizlar paydo bo'ladi.<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

      \u0423\u0440\u043e\u0436\u0430\u0439 \u0442\u043e\u043c\u0430\u0442\u043e\u0432 \u2014 \u044d\u0442\u043e \u0432\u0441\u0435\u0433\u0434\u0430 \u0440\u0435\u0437\u0443\u043b\u044c\u0442\u0430\u0442 \u0442\u043e\u0447\u043d\u043e\u0433\u043e \u0440\u0430\u0441\u0447\u0435\u0442\u0430. \u041e\u0448\u0438\u0431\u043a\u0430 \u0432 \u0441\u0440\u043e\u043a\u0430\u0445 \u043f\u043e\u0441\u0435\u0432\u0430 \u0434\u0430\u0436\u0435 \u043d\u0430 \u0434\u0432\u0435 \u043d\u0435\u0434\u0435\u043b\u0438 \u043c\u043e\u0436\u0435\u0442 \u043f\u0440\u0435\u0432\u0440\u0430\u0442\u0438\u0442\u044c \u043c\u043e\u0449\u043d\u044b\u0435 \u043a\u0443\u0441\u0442\u044b […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":3508,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"site-sidebar-layout":"default","site-content-layout":"","ast-site-content-layout":"default","site-content-style":"default","site-sidebar-style":"default","ast-global-header-display":"","ast-banner-title-visibility":"","ast-main-header-display":"","ast-hfb-above-header-display":"","ast-hfb-below-header-display":"","ast-hfb-mobile-header-display":"","site-post-title":"","ast-breadcrumbs-content":"","ast-featured-img":"","footer-sml-layout":"","ast-disable-related-posts":"","theme-transparent-header-meta":"","adv-header-id-meta":"","stick-header-meta":"","header-above-stick-meta":"","header-main-stick-meta":"","header-below-stick-meta":"","astra-migrate-meta-layouts":"default","ast-page-background-enabled":"default","ast-page-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"ast-content-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-4)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-4)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-4)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"footnotes":""},"categories":[5],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-3506","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-tomaty"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/sadogorodnik.top\/uz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3506","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/sadogorodnik.top\/uz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/sadogorodnik.top\/uz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/sadogorodnik.top\/uz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/sadogorodnik.top\/uz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=3506"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/sadogorodnik.top\/uz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3506\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":16980,"href":"https:\/\/sadogorodnik.top\/uz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3506\/revisions\/16980"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/sadogorodnik.top\/uz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/3508"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/sadogorodnik.top\/uz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=3506"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/sadogorodnik.top\/uz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=3506"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/sadogorodnik.top\/uz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=3506"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}