{"id":10165,"date":"2021-05-31T15:32:31","date_gmt":"2021-05-31T12:32:31","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/sadogorodnik.top\/?p=10165"},"modified":"2026-06-20T09:18:26","modified_gmt":"2026-06-20T06:18:26","slug":"pochemu-krasneyut-listya-na-smorodine-i-kak-spasti-urozhaj","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/sadogorodnik.top\/uz\/pochemu-krasneyut-listya-na-smorodine-i-kak-spasti-urozhaj\/","title":{"rendered":"Nima uchun smorodina barglari qizilga aylanadi va hosilni qanday saqlash kerak?"},"content":{"rendered":"

Smorodina barglaridagi qizil yoki jigarrang dog'lar shunchaki kosmetik nuqson emas; ular jiddiy fiziologik nosozlik yoki biologik tahdidni anglatadi. 2026-yil iyun oyida, buta faol ravishda barglar o'sib, meva berayotganda, bunday shikastlanishlar butun hosilga zarar etkazishi mumkin. Agar vaziyat noto'g'ri baholansa, bog'bon nafaqat hozirgi o'sishni, balki butaning o'zini ham yo'qotish xavfini tug'diradi, buta qishga charchab, kuzga kelib sovuqqa bardosh bera olmaydi.<\/p>\n

Nima uchun smorodina barglarida qizil shishlar paydo bo'ladi?<\/h2>\n

Muammoga samarali qarshi kurashish uchun jarayonning fizikasini tushunish muhimdir. "Pufakchalar" ning asosiy sababi barg to'qimasining tashqi tirnash xususiyatiga javobidir. Agar barg yuqoriga qarab deformatsiyalanib, shishlar hosil qilsa, biz zararkunanda bilan kurashamiz. Agar dog'lar tekis, jigarrang bo'lsa va asta-sekin butun barg pichog'ining qurib qolishiga olib kelsa, bu qo'ziqorin infektsiyasi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n
Sabab<\/td>\nZararning tabiati<\/td>\nMavsumiylik<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Qizil o't pufagi<\/td>\nKo'tarilgan, yorqin qizil tuberkulyoz<\/td>\nMay-iyul<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Antraknoz<\/td>\nTo'q rangli chegarasi bo'lgan jigarrang yassi dog'lar<\/td>\nIyun-avgust<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Zang (qadah)<\/td>\nOrqa tomonda to'q sariq-sariq prokladkalar<\/td>\nGullash davri<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

\"Barglarning<\/p>\n

Qizil o't biti: niqob ustasi<\/h3>\n

Bu zararkunanda asosan barglarning pastki qismida yashaydi. Shira o'simlik sharbatini so'rib olish orqali o'simlik to'qimalariga maxsus fermentlarni kiritadi, bu esa bargda g'ayritabiiy hujayralar o'sishiga olib keladi va natijada o'tlar (shishlar) hosil bo'ladi.<\/p>\n

    \n
  • Qanday qilib tanib olish mumkin:<\/strong> Dastlabki bosqichda yosh barglarda mayda sarg'ish dog'lar ko'rinadi. Bir hafta o'tgach, bu dog'lar yorqin qizil rangga aylanadi va barg burishib, fotosintez qilish qobiliyatini yo'qotadi.<\/li>\n
  • Hayot davrasi:<\/strong> Shira tuxumlari kurtaklar tagida joylashgan po'stloq burmalarida to'g'ridan-to'g'ri qishlaydi. Bahorda, sharbat oqishi bilan lichinkalar paydo bo'ladi. Yozning o'rtalariga kelib, qanotli o'simliklar begona o'tlarga ko'chib o'tishi, kuzda esa qishlaydigan avlod qoldirish uchun qaytib kelishi mumkin.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

    \"Qizil<\/p>\n

    Qutqaruv taktikasi:<\/strong> Agar rezavor mevalarni yig'ib olishdan oldin 20 kundan kam vaqt qolgan bo'lsa, kimyoviy ishlov berishdan saqlaning. Biologik mahsulotlardan (Fitoverm) yoki konsentrlangan infuziyalardan foydalaning. Bargning pastki qismini, ya'ni koloniya yashiringan joyni ehtiyotkorlik bilan ishlov berish muhimdir.<\/p>\n

    Antraknoz: Jim qotil<\/h3>\n

    Qo'ziqorin Colletotrichum<\/em> Yuqori namlik va zich butalar sharoitida rivojlanadi. Shiralardan farqli o'laroq, antraknoz to'qimalarga bevosita hujum qiladi. Zamburug'li sporalarni yomg'ir tomchilari va shamol shamollari tashiydi.<\/p>\n

    \"Smorodina<\/p>\n

    Xavf omillari:<\/strong><\/p>\n

      \n
    • Azizillo yo'qligi sababli toj ichidagi havo turg'unligi.<\/li>\n
    • Haddan tashqari azotli o'g'itlar, bu bargni yumshoq va zaif qiladi.<\/li>\n
    • Kaliy va fosfor yetishmasligi o'simlik hujayra devorlarini zaiflashtiradi.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

      Zang: xavfli qo'shni<\/h3>\n

      Qadahsimon zang ko'pincha pasttekisliklarda o'sadigan cho'kindilardan tarqaladi. Agar smorodina butalaringiz yer osti suvlari sathi yuqori bo'lgan joylarga yoki yovvoyi donli tashlandiq dalalarga yaqin bo'lsa, zang xavfi sezilarli darajada oshadi.<\/p>\n

      \"Smorodina<\/p>\n

      2026-yil uchun himoya va qayta ishlash strategiyasi<\/h2>\n

      Zararkunandalar va kasalliklarga qarshi kurashish uchun kompleks yondashuvdan foydalaning. Patogenlar tezda moslashib ketayotgani uchun faqat bitta mahsulotga tayanmang.<\/p>\n

      Samarali shira nazorat sxemasi<\/h3>\n

      Agar shira populyatsiyasi juda muhim bo'lsa, tizimli insektitsidlardan (Biotlin, Confidor) foydalaning. Ular o'simlik sharbatiga singib ketadi, bu esa uni 2-3 haftagacha yoqimsiz va hasharotlar uchun halokatli qiladi.<\/p>\n

      \"Smorodina<\/p>\n

      Qo'ziqorin infektsiyalarini davolash<\/h3>\n

      Muvaffaqiyat kaliti - muolajalarni navbatma-navbat bajarish. Mis o'z ichiga olgan mahsulotlar (Bordo aralashmasi, mis sulfat) erta bahorda va barglar tushganidan keyin profilaktika chorasi sifatida eng yaxshi ishlaydi.<\/p>\n

        \n
      1. Bahor (kurtak ochilishidan oldin):<\/strong> 3% ni Bordo aralashmasi eritmasi bilan ishlov berish.<\/li>\n
      2. O'sish mavsumi:<\/strong> Fitosporin-M (biologik fungitsid, mevalar uchun xavfsiz).<\/li>\n
      3. O'rim-yig'imdan keyin:<\/strong> Yuqumli fonni tubdan yo'q qilish uchun Ridomil Gold.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

        An'anaviy usullar yordamchi vosita sifatida<\/h3>\n

        Xalq vositalari (sovun-kul eritmalari, sarimsoq yoki xantal damlamalari) faqat zararlanishning dastlabki bosqichlarida samarali bo'ladi. Ularning asosiy tarkibiy qismi muntazam surtish (har 5-7 kunda) va yopishtiruvchi modda (sovun) mavjudligidir; usiz damlama silliq smorodina bargidan oqib ketadi.<\/p>\n

        \"Smorodina<\/p>\n

        Profilaktika: Muammoni qanday oldini olish mumkin<\/h2>\n

        Hatto eng kuchli zahar ham to'g'ri qishloq xo'jaligi amaliyotlarining o'rnini bosa olmaydi. Sizning himoya arsenalingiz quyidagilarni o'z ichiga olishi kerak:<\/p>\n

          \n
        • Mal\u00e7lash:<\/strong> Ildiz bo'ynida ortiqcha namlikning oldini olish uchun yangi organik moddalar yoki o'rilgan o'tlardan foydalaning, lekin to'g'ridan-to'g'ri magistral ostiga emas.<\/li>\n
        • Sanitariya Azizillo:<\/strong> Buta "nafas olishi" kerak. Toj ichida kesishgan kurtaklar bo'lmasligi kerak.<\/li>\n
        • Chumolilarni nazorat qilish:<\/strong> Chumolilar shira "fermerlari"ning asosiy vakillaridir. Hududingizdagi chumoli uyalarini yo'q qilish 70% da shira yuqishi xavfini avtomatik ravishda kamaytiradi.<\/li>\n
        • Immunitet:<\/strong> O'sish stimulyatorlari (Epin, Zirkon) o'simliklar zararkunandalar hujumidan keyin tezroq tiklanishiga yordam beradi.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

          \"O'rim-yig'imdan<\/p>\n

          Tez-tez so'raladigan savollar (FAQ)<\/h3>\n

          Bahorda smorodina sug'orish uchun issiq suvdan foydalanish mumkinmi?<\/strong> Ha, bu klassik usul. Suv harorati 60\u201370\u00b0C atrofida bo'lishi kerak. Bu qishlaydigan shira tuxumlarining bir qismini samarali ravishda o'ldiradi, ammo bu sharbat oqishni boshlamasdan va kurtaklari shishib keta boshlamasdan oldin qat'iy bajarilishi kerak.<\/p>\n

          Qizil dog'lar bu yilgi hosil uchun xavflimi?<\/strong> Dog'larning o'zi rezavorlarga zarar yetkazmaydi, lekin ta'sirlangan barg tuxumdonlarga ozuqa moddalarini yetkazib berishni kamaytiradi, bu ularning qisqarishiga va to'kilishiga olib keladi. Agar zarar jiddiy bo'lsa, buta iyul oyida barglarini to'kishi mumkin, bu esa qishki chidamlilikni sezilarli darajada pasaytiradi.<\/p>\n

          Yiqilgan barglarni yoqish kerakmi?<\/strong> Albatta. Antraknoz qo'ziqorin sporalari tushgan barglarda yillar davomida saqlanib qoladi. Bu barglarni kompostlash uchun 60\u00b0C dan yuqori harorat talab qilinadi, bunga an'anaviy kompost qutisida erishish qiyin.<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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[…]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":10170,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"site-sidebar-layout":"default","site-content-layout":"","ast-site-content-layout":"default","site-content-style":"default","site-sidebar-style":"default","ast-global-header-display":"","ast-banner-title-visibility":"","ast-main-header-display":"","ast-hfb-above-header-display":"","ast-hfb-below-header-display":"","ast-hfb-mobile-header-display":"","site-post-title":"","ast-breadcrumbs-content":"","ast-featured-img":"","footer-sml-layout":"","ast-disable-related-posts":"","theme-transparent-header-meta":"default","adv-header-id-meta":"","stick-header-meta":"","header-above-stick-meta":"","header-main-stick-meta":"","header-below-stick-meta":"","astra-migrate-meta-layouts":"set","ast-page-background-enabled":"default","ast-page-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center 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